Cha chaan teng is literally the phrase for a Chinese tea diner, but to Hong Kong locals and visitors from around the world, these three words mean so much more. Cha chaan tengs are popular in parts of China, Taiwan and Macau and have popped up in Chinatowns around the world. In HK they are known for providing inexpensive meals of the island's varied cuisines including Hong Kong style Western dishes, like Hong Kong French toast, even more buttery and sweet than its occidental counterpart. Another cha chaan teng treat if you have a sweet tooth are pineapple buns with butter. Fast food and a la carte meals are both available. The cha chaan tengs are frequently compared to American-style 1950s and 1960s diners and became popular with Hong Kong's booming industry and factory lifestyle. Their heritage is evident in the booth-style seating, wall-mount electric fans and menus that are usually under glass tabletops.
Not to be confused with a full-scale Cantonese tea service, these inexpensive eateries will give you pots of black Ceylon tea with milk, usually on the weak side, as soon as you sit down. Traditionally this brew would be strained through ladies' silk stockings. This standard milk tea, or naai cha, is what you'll get unless you request a different tea right away - such as strong lemon tea, leng cha, or an interesting mix of coffee and black tea, called yun yeung. Besides teas, the cha chaan tengs are guaranteed to serve up cheap, nostalgic HK comfort food. Rice dishes are traditionally not served in cha chaan tengs but newer restaurants may carry them at a higher price than the rest of the cheap dishes. Noodle dishes, including instant noodles, are quite popular, as are various sandwiches and anything you could want on toast. Egg sandwiches and eggs over spaghetti are best sellers, as is stewed beef brisket. There are economical set-price meals offered daily that usually include soup and tea. You'll also get to listen to lots and lots of Canto-pop, another Hong Kong cultural staple.
There are thousands of these diner-style restaurants in HK and they are a unifying aspect of the island society, popular with all socio-economic backgrounds. Even today you'll see them all over movies and television shows. Various restauranteurs are trying to capitalize on Hong Kong residents' soft spot for these diner-style eateries and create more expensive versions with organic and locally sourced ingredients. A famous 24-hour version of the cha chaan teng is Tsui Wah on Wellington Street. A recent poll in Hong Kong found that seven out of ten people asked believed that the cha chaan tengs should make it onto UNESCO's cultural heritage lists. Whether you go for the newer, healthier versions of cha chaan tengs or the traditional greasy spoon staples, these tea diners are another enjoyable stop on a tour of Hong Kong's many culinary delights.
Not to be confused with a full-scale Cantonese tea service, these inexpensive eateries will give you pots of black Ceylon tea with milk, usually on the weak side, as soon as you sit down. Traditionally this brew would be strained through ladies' silk stockings. This standard milk tea, or naai cha, is what you'll get unless you request a different tea right away - such as strong lemon tea, leng cha, or an interesting mix of coffee and black tea, called yun yeung. Besides teas, the cha chaan tengs are guaranteed to serve up cheap, nostalgic HK comfort food. Rice dishes are traditionally not served in cha chaan tengs but newer restaurants may carry them at a higher price than the rest of the cheap dishes. Noodle dishes, including instant noodles, are quite popular, as are various sandwiches and anything you could want on toast. Egg sandwiches and eggs over spaghetti are best sellers, as is stewed beef brisket. There are economical set-price meals offered daily that usually include soup and tea. You'll also get to listen to lots and lots of Canto-pop, another Hong Kong cultural staple.
There are thousands of these diner-style restaurants in HK and they are a unifying aspect of the island society, popular with all socio-economic backgrounds. Even today you'll see them all over movies and television shows. Various restauranteurs are trying to capitalize on Hong Kong residents' soft spot for these diner-style eateries and create more expensive versions with organic and locally sourced ingredients. A famous 24-hour version of the cha chaan teng is Tsui Wah on Wellington Street. A recent poll in Hong Kong found that seven out of ten people asked believed that the cha chaan tengs should make it onto UNESCO's cultural heritage lists. Whether you go for the newer, healthier versions of cha chaan tengs or the traditional greasy spoon staples, these tea diners are another enjoyable stop on a tour of Hong Kong's many culinary delights.
Owen Crouch enjoys reading food and cuisines from various cities around the globe. If you would like a cha chaan teng experience in Hong Kong, the Royal Pacific Hotel Hong Kong, an accommodation situated in kowloon, TST is close to many of these fine diners.